Friday, May 1, 2026
We awoke refreshed this morning. Before (and again after) breakfast, we spent some time exploring the lovely grounds of Lawcus Farm Guesthouse in the soft morning sunlight. The gently trickling river, with various bridges and landings Mark had built, made for a peaceful wander. We visited the hens and, in the barn, admired the large metal sculptures of the Predator and Alien that Mark had acquired.
We then enjoyed a wonderful breakfast prepared by Anne Marie, our gracious host. Jane and I were treated to warm drop scones (pancakes), fresh fruit, and softly scrambled eggs.
Before, during, and long after breakfast, either Mark, Anne Marie, or both kept up a lively stream of conversation. Their stories flowed in musical Irish cadences, full of humor, tangents, and local lore, and our ears could barely keep pace with the wonderfully unbroken soliloquies. Still, we found ourselves lingering at the table, drawn in by Anne Marie’s lilting, delightfully rambling tales.
Eventually, we managed to pull ourselves away, gathered what we needed for the day, and departed Lawcus Farm to begin our first full day exploring the Kilkenny area.
—— Exploring Lawcus Farm —–
Our first stop was Jerpoint Glass Studio, located just outside of nearby Stonyford. The studio was open to visitors, though no glassblowing was taking place at the time since the furnace was undergoing maintenance. We spent a considerable amount of time speaking with the woman running the shop, a Hungarian raised in Texas and now an Irish transplant. She shared insights into their glassmaking process, the day-to-day realities of operating a small studio like theirs, and offered broader context about the craft in general.
—— Jerpoint Glass Studio —–
From there, Jane drove us to busy Kilkenny, a lively medieval city filled with narrow stone streets, colorful storefronts, and centuries of history. It took us awhile to find a place to park since today, May Day, is a holiday here, so lots of locals and tourists were out and about. We parked across the River Nore and walked across a footbridge into town. We came out by a large Dunnes Stores, so we went in to find a bathroom, but they were “out of service.” So, we headed toward Kilkenny Castle to look at it from the outside. along the way, we stopped off to use the public pay toilets — € 0.50.
—— River Nore, Kilkenny —–
Built in 1195 by the powerful Butler family after the Norman invasion of Ireland, Kilkenny Castle has stood for more than 800 years as one of Ireland’s most important and well-preserved medieval castles. The castle was striking, with its long gray stone walls, round towers, and perfectly manicured green lawns stretching out in front of it. Set beside the river and surrounded by blooming trees and wide walking paths, it looked like something straight out of a storybook. From the grounds, we could see families relaxing and youngsters sporting on the grass while visitors wandered the pathways taking photos of the impressive fortress.
—— Kilkenny Castle —–
Next, as best we could without a guidebook or map, we navigated the Medieval Mile, a historic trail of narrow slipways and landmarks that perfectly captures Kilkenny’s middle-age charm. We stepped into the serene St. Mary’s Church, strolled down bustling High Street, and admired the Tudor architecture of Rothe House and the Smithwick’s Experience.
—— St. Mary’s Cathedral—–
Our journey concluded at St. Canice’s Cathedral, a site that has served as a place of Christian worship since the 6th century, though the current Gothic structure was primarily built in the 13th century. Jane and I then tackled the narrow stone steps of its adjacent Round Tower; we climbed 121 steps to reach the top of the 100-foot structure and enjoyed a truly amazing panoramic view of Kilkenny.
—— St. Canice’s Cathedral and Tower Views —–
With 45 minutes still on the parking meter, we backtracked to The House of Pretzels, which featured an astounding array of delicacies ranging from savory twists to sweet, bakery-style pastries. We took a moment to rest and refuel, enjoying lemon glaze pastries, a Nutella twist, and refreshing iced lattes. Wary of incurring a fine for overstaying our welcome, we headed back across the river to our car and navigated out of Kilkenny via a route avoiding the heavy city traffic.
Our final stop was Kells Priory, a magnificent 12th-century Augustinian monastery that is free to explore and open 24/7. Locally known as the “Seven Castles” due to its imposing tower houses, the site is one of Ireland’s largest and most impressive medieval monuments. These ruins are uniquely well-preserved, featuring a sprawling three-acre enclosure along the banks of the King’s River that makes it look more like a fortress than a place of worship. Massive stone walls encircle the entire precinct, reflecting a rare combination of monastic serenity and late medieval military defense.
This was the favorite spot of the day for Jane and I, and the weather was absolutely perfect. We had to venture across a sheep pasture from the parking lot to the ruins’ wall. After entering, we took our time wandering around to behold the many sections of ruins. On the far side of the priory, we crossed the King’s River on a foot bridge for another perspective before returning back through the priory and the sheep pasture to our car.
—— Kells Priory —–
After touring Kells Priory, we drove the short distance back to Lawcus Farm Guesthouse for a brief rest. Before long, we set out again for a nearby restaurant where Anne Marie had kindly arranged reservations for us.
We enjoyed an excellent seafood dinner at The Kings Mill Restaurant, lingering over the meal and the warm atmosphere before returning to the guesthouse for the night.
—— Our Dinner Venue —–
Tonight brings a full moon, though thick clouds have settled across the sky, so we will likely miss its rising later this evening. Still, the soft, overcast night seems fitting after such a peaceful afternoon in the Kilkenny countryside.
—— Evening at Lawcus Farm —–
