Saturday, May 9, 2026
After breakfast, with John behind the wheel, we departed Devane’s Bed & Breakfast shortly after 9:00 a.m., beginning our drive north toward Doolin. Along the way we made a brief stop to photograph the striking Blennerville Windmill, Ireland’s largest working windmill, its white tower and dark sails standing prominently against the morning sky.
Before long we arrived at the Tarbert–Killimer car ferry for the crossing of the River Shannon estuary. Although our wait was only about fifteen minutes, a surprisingly long line of vehicles had already formed ahead of us. Once boarding began, it was impressive to watch how efficiently the ferry accommodated cars, camper vans, motorcycles, bicycles, and foot passengers alike.
The crossing itself took about twenty minutes. During the early part of the voyage, a helicopter hovered low above the ferry before breaking away from us, perhaps conducting a coastal or water-rescue training exercise. Combined with the gray skies, sea air, and busy ferry deck, it added an extra bit of drama to an otherwise routine crossing.
—— Blennerville Windmill —–
—— Crossing the River Shannon: Tarbert-Killimer Ferry —–
After disembarking from the ferry, we drove straight toward Doolin, making only a brief stop for photographs at scenic Quilty Beach.
—— Quilty Beach —–
The final stretch into Doolin took us along narrow, winding coastal roads that demanded constant attention and careful coordination whenever oncoming vehicles appeared. In several places the lanes were not wide enough for two cars to pass, requiring one driver or the other to edge into pull-offs or hug the roadside stone walls while squeezing by. Despite the challenge, the route offered beautiful glimpses of green fields, grazing cattle, and the rugged coastline beyond.
We arrived at The Lodge Doolin around 1:00 p.m. Official check-in wasn’t until 3:00, but fortunately our rooms were already ready, and the staff kindly allowed us to settle in early. It was a welcome break to finally unload our luggage and get comfortable after the morning’s drive and ferry crossing. The Lodge Doolin is a boutique-style guesthouse located between the upper and lower sections of Doolin. Jane and I were pleased with our very modern and spacious room.
—– The Lodge Doolin —–
Not long afterward, the four of us walked down into lower Doolin—known as Fisher Street—to have lunch at Gus O’Connor’s Pub, one of the village’s best-known traditional pubs. The cozy pub, with its dark wood interior, lively atmosphere, and walls decorated with music memorabilia and local photographs, perfectly captured the welcoming spirit of western Ireland. Traditional Irish music drifted through the rooms while travelers and locals alike crowded around tables enjoying food and pints.
Jane decided to take a brief break from our mostly pescatarian diet and ordered the Irish stew, a hearty bowl filled with tender chunks of beef, carrots, potatoes, and rich savory broth that she declared both delicious and filling. I opted for fish and chips. To accompany the meal, we enjoyed pints of Guinness, except John who chose a Murphy’s Irish Red instead.
—— Lower Doolin and O’Connor’s Pub —–
After finishing our meal, we wandered through a couple of gift shops next door to Gus O’Connor’s Pub, browsing locally-made souvenirs and Irish crafts before heading back toward The Lodge. Jane decided to stay there for a bit of rest, while John, Nancy, and I continued on to explore the nearby Irish Crafts – Doolin shop, which was filled with woolens, handmade jewelry, pottery, and other locally produced goods.
Afterward, I continued on alone a little farther into the upper part of Doolin, known as Roadford, just to get a feel for the layout of the village and satisfy my curiosity about how the different sections connect. The walk offered another perspective of Doolin before I eventually turned back and made my way to The Lodge.
Around 4:30 p.m., we set out for the Cliffs of Moher, retracing several miles along the same narrow coastal roads we had driven earlier in the day. The drive required patience and concentration, especially with tour buses, camper vans, and streams of departing visitors squeezing along the tight lanes. Pull-offs and careful coordination became essential whenever larger vehicles approached from the opposite direction. Along the way we passed Doonagore Castle, a striking 16th century circular stone tower house perched dramatically on a hillside overlooking the Atlantic.
—— Doonagore Castle —–
At the Cliffs of Moher, a vast parking area has been built to accommodate the steady flow of visitors arriving throughout the day. We benefited from a slightly reduced rate by arriving after 4:00 p.m., when the main crowds had begun to thin. From the car park, we followed the paved path uphill, gradually gaining views of the cliffs as we went.
Along the way we noticed a series of “hobbit holes”, rounded entrances which turned out to be compact shops selling souvenirs, snacks, and local crafts. Farther along, a larger structure marked the entrance to the Cliffs of Moher Visitor Experience, a modern underground center built into the landscape to minimize its visual impact. Inside, exhibits covered the region’s geology, native bird species, marine life, and coastal ecology, along with interactive displays that helped explain the cliffs’ formation and ecosystem.
One of the highlights was a short immersive film in the on-site theater, The Ledge Experience. Presented in a 4D format, it follows a gannet soaring along the cliff edge before plunging into the Atlantic, encountering seals, fish, and even a humpback whale beneath the waves, while the towering cliffs and crashing surf dramatically unfold overhead.
—— Cliffs of Moher Visitors Center —–
Exiting the visitor center, we took the southbound cliff-top path toward Hag’s Head, following the paved trail along the edge of the cliffs with intermittent protection from a low wall built of local Liscannor slate. We continued until we reached the end of the open section, as the path toward Hag’s Head itself was closed due to unsafe conditions. From there, we turned back and headed in the opposite direction.
—— Cliffs of Moher, Southbound Path —–
On the northbound trail toward Doolin, we made our way toward O’Brien’s Tower, a small stone lookout tower built in 1835 as a viewing point for early visitors to the cliffs. We climbed its narrow spiral staircase over two flights to the top, though the view through the small slit windows was surprisingly limited, offering only narrow slices of coastline rather than the sweeping panorama we had expected.
Interestingly, one of those openings framed an unexpected moment below: a couple stood near an overlook below, and the young man suddenly dropped to one knee. Before I could even reach for my phone, he had opened a small box, and within seconds they were embracing and kissing. I had unexpectedly witnessed a cliffside proposal beneath the tower.
We then continued further along the northbound cliff walk, climbing gradually higher as the path traced the edge of the Atlantic. The sun was bright and the sky a clear blue, but a brisk, gusty wind swept across the cliffs, reminding us how exposed and powerful this landscape is. We paused frequently along the way for photos and simply to take in the dramatic views, enjoying the contrast of brilliant light, strong wind, and endless ocean below.
—— Cliffs of Moher, Northbound Path & O’Brien’s Tower —–
After our exhilarating Cliffs of Moher adventure, we drove back to The Lodge. Jane and I weren’t really hungry for a full dinner, so I made a short walk back into upper Doolin and picked up a couple of Galway Hooker Pale Ales from a local shop. On the walk back, the bottles got jostled enough that, back in the room, when I tried to open one (without a bottle opener), it frothed up and made a mess on the floor. After cleaning that up, we made the best of it, enjoying the beer with peanuts while settling into our comfortable room. We quickly wound down after a long active day and soon, called it a night.\