Wednesday, May 6, 2026
We packed up and left our Kenmare apartment shortly after 8 a.m., knowing we had a long day ahead driving the Ring of Kerry—a scenic 100+ mile loop around the Iveragh Peninsula. Following the N70 along Kenmare Bay, we passed through small towns like Tahilla, Parknasilla, and Sneem before turning off toward Staigue Stone Fort.
A narrow, quiet road led us to the impressive circular fort, believed to date back to the late Iron Age (around 100 BC). Likely built as a defensive stronghold for a local chieftain, its dry-stone walls reach 5.5 meters high, 4 meters thick at the base, and span roughly 27.5 meters in diameter—built without mortar. We explored the fort, climbed its stone steps, and walked the top, snapping plenty of photos.
—— Staigue Stone Fort —–
Back on the Ring, we stopped frequently at scenic overlooks including Castlecove Beach, Doire Fhíonáin Viewpoint and the Skelligs Heritage Centre which was closed. We also visited the Skelligs Chocolate Factory in Ballinskelligs where we sampled eight types of chocolate, bought a few bars, and enjoyed coffee and hot chocolate.
—— Castlecove Beach —–
—— Doire Fhíonáin Viewpoint (Coomatloukane) ——
—— Skelligs Heritage Centre (closed) & Skelligs Islands —–
—— Skelligs Chocolate Factory —–
As we continued, we detoured from the Ring of Kerry onto the Skellig Ring, a narrower and even more scenic route known for its spectacular coastal views and relative freedom from large tour buses. Along the way, we stopped at the Kerry Cliffs near Portmagee, a privately owned cliff-top attraction perched high above the Atlantic.
After paying the entrance fee, we followed the walking trails to a series of breathtaking viewpoints overlooking cliffs that rise more than 1,000 feet above the ocean. From the headlands, we could see the Skellig Islands, Puffin Island, Valentia Island, and miles of rugged Kerry coastline stretching into the distance. The site included parking for tour buses and RVs, along with small shops, picnic areas, and food stands, but the real attraction was the dramatic scenery—sheer rock faces plunging into the Atlantic and the unforgettable feeling of standing at the very edge of Ireland.
—— Kerry Cliffs near Portmagee —–
From there, we continued over a bridge to Valentia Island where we visited The Skellig Experience. While a boat trip to Skellig Michael itself is limited to summer months, the center offers insight into the monastery founded by St. Fionán. Monks endured extreme isolation to build beehive-shaped huts, rock stairways, and retaining walls atop the jagged island, rising 550–600 feet above the Atlantic.
—— Arriving onto Valentia Island —–
—— The Skellig Experience —–
After exploring the exhibits at the Skellig Experience, we boarded the ferry across the Portmagee Channel and rejoined the Ring of Kerry route with Dingle Bay stretching along our left side. Exhausted and hungry after a full day of sightseeing, John pulled over in the first town we reached, Cahersiveen. We enjoyed a relaxing meal and a welcome break from the car at John D’s Bar, part of the Ring of Kerry Hotel, before piling back in and continuing our journey around the Ring.
—— Departing Valentia Island —–
Our final Ring stop was Cahergall Stone Fort, a remarkably preserved ring fort dating back to the 7th century and another striking example of early medieval defensive architecture. Standing within its thick circular stone walls, we could easily imagine how families once lived and sought protection there more than a thousand years ago. The fort’s elevated position also offered sweeping views of the surrounding countryside, providing a peaceful and fitting conclusion to our day along the Ring of Kerry.
—— Cahergall Ring Fort—–
With time pressing, we headed to Dingle to arrive before 6:15 p.m., as our host Geraldine was attending the funeral of a well-known local builder. As we entered town, crowds were gathering respectfully outside the funeral home. We reached Devanes B&B at 6 p.m., received our keys from Geraldine, and quickly settled before heading out to explore Dingle.
—— Devanes Bed & Breakfast —–
Devanes Bed & Breakfast is conveniently located on Goat Street, which flows directly into Main Street, making it easy for us to walk into the heart of town. We wandered through several pubs before settling into The Dingle Pub, where a guitarist performed a lively mix of Irish music and familiar American pop songs. An older couple graciously allowed us to share their table, and we spent the next hour enjoying pints and conversation with the friendly locals, Mary and Joe, while soaking in the warm atmosphere, live music, and unmistakable charm of a traditional Irish pub. Eventually, we headed back out to continue exploring the town.
—— The Dingle Pub —–
While John and Nancy returned to the B&B, Jane and I set out in search of a place to eat. We wandered down Green Street toward Strand Street so we could take in the Dingle Harbour waterfront along the way. Eventually, we settled into John Benny’s Pub, where we enjoyed a wonderful seafood dinner and a final taste of Dingle’s lively atmosphere. Full, tired, and satisfied after a day packed with adventure, we finally made our way back to our room, bringing an unforgettable day to a close. Coincidentally, today would have been my father’s 100th birthday, a thought that had stayed quietly with me throughout our travels.
—— John Benny’s Pub —–
—— Dingle in the Evening —–
