Monday, May 4, 2026
Our Bosun breakfast was at 8 a.m. this morning so we could get an early start. Jane had the porridge and thought it was quite good. We were the only four people in the breakfast room, which made for a quiet and relaxed start to the day.
The rain had ended overnight, so we were hopeful that the drive from Monkstown to Kenmare, with a stopover along the way, wouldn’t be too difficult. Jane drove as we headed toward Blarney Castle and Gardens. The journey took about 40 minutes over a mix of narrow country lanes and some fairly decent roads.
After purchasing our tickets, we wandered through the gardens, drawn steadily toward the towering silhouette of Blarney Castle. Built nearly six hundred years ago by the MacCarthy dynasty, the castle has long been one of Ireland’s most famous landmarks. Legend says that anyone who kisses the Blarney Stone is granted the “gift of gab” — a special talent for eloquence, charm, and persuasive speech. Over the centuries, politicians, actors, writers, and countless tourists have made the climb in hopes of gaining its magical blessing.
Jane and I first explored part of the lower castle that once served as the dungeon, with its thick stone walls and dark, chilly atmosphere hinting at a harsher medieval past. We then met up with Nancy and John and zipped past the “One Hour Wait” sign as we entered the castle proper. Since the Blarney Stone is located high on the roof, we began climbing a series of wooden stairways before continuing up three stories of sharply winding spiral stone stairs inside the tower.
Eventually we emerged onto the rectangular rooftop and joined the queue awaiting our chance with the famous stone. I was the only one in our group who actually kissed it. Before and during the trip, Jane had been ranting about the germs, slobber, and lipstick that surely coated the stone, fretting that she would come down with a dreadful cold or some terrible respiratory illness if she dared to touch it.
After about a ten-minute wait, my turn finally arrived. The attendant pointed out the proper section of stone to aim for. I lowered myself onto my back, gripped the two metal bars beside me with my palms facing inward, craned my neck backward over the open gap, and gave the stone a good smackeroo. The whole thing was over in seconds, and I was quickly pulled back to my feet so the next brave soul could have a turn.
I must confess that I didn’t suddenly become especially gabby afterward, and so far I haven’t suffered any ill effects from my daring act.
—— Blarney Castle and Stone —–
After our castle adventure, we spent quite a long time wandering through the beautiful Blarney Gardens. The grounds are extensive and varied, with each section offering something different to discover. We explored the Poison Garden, filled with ominously labeled toxic plants, as well as the Carnivorous Garden with strange insect-eating plants. The Fern Garden, with its lush greenery and shaded pathways, provided a cool and peaceful contrast to the open lawns and flower beds.
The gardens were bursting with color. The azaleas and alliums were especially striking, both in glorious full bloom, although most of the tulips had already faded for the season. Along the way we also admired Blarney House — private and closed to visitors, but stunning from the outside with its stately architecture and manicured surroundings. We passed bee colonies humming with activity, examined an old lime kiln that hinted at the estate’s working past, and eventually strolled down to the calm and picturesque lake.
After all that walking, we stopped at the Coach House Café, located in what had once been the estate’s horse stables. Jane and I each ordered a latte along with a slice of vegan carrot cake, which turned out to be surprisingly tasty.
—— Blarney Gardens & House —–
We then hit the road again, charting a course for Kenmare. Though we arrived thirty minutes before our official 4:00 p.m. check-in, our Booking.com host had already messaged us the lockbox code, allowing us to slip inside early. The space is a comfortable two-story, three-bedroom apartment equipped with a much-needed washing machine and an outdoor clothesline.
Nancy and Jane immediately kicked off a laundry marathon. With chores underway, we turned our attention to dinner. John placed a takeout order at Apache Pizza, then ran to Lidl with Jane to stock up on groceries, grabbing our pizzas on the way back. In the meantime, our host popped in to drop off missing towels for Nancy and John’s room.
We paired our pizza feast with a crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc while tracking laundry cycles. When dusk fell, we scrambled to move the damp clothes inside, using some creative engineering to string them up across the apartment.
Once the table was cleared, Jane and I broke out a large paper map, highlighting every road we’ve conquered in Ireland so far—hopefully, a new nightly ritual. It was a long, satisfying day, so, sleep came easily.
—— Our Kenmare Apartment—–
