Monday, May 19, 2025
This morning, we prepared for our departure to San Miguel de Allende. We took an Uber ride to Mexico City’s North Bus Station. Despite the heavy traffic, we arrived in about 25 minutes and were pleasantly surprised by how easy it was to locate the ETN ticket counter. We purchased our tickets quickly and still had plenty of time to explore the station’s shops and restaurants.
I picked up a tuna sandwich and some chips from the Subway restaurant to enjoy during the journey. Jane abstained from breakfast and lunch because of an upset stomach. Our ETN Luxury bus departed promptly at 9:20 a.m., heading northwest out of the city via Route 57D. Although it took a while to escape the sprawling urban landscape of Mexico City, the bus was incredibly comfortable, allowing us to relax and settle in for the ride.
—— Mexico City’s North Bus Station ——
I spent some time blogging while Jane listened to podcasts and dozed off. The scenery was mostly dry and sparse at first, but it was fascinating to pass through small Mexican villages seemingly untouched by modernity. As we continued, the terrain gradually shifted to more mountainous regions with patches of green vegetation.
Right on schedule, we arrived in San Miguel de Allende at 1:30 p.m.
— Scenery: Mexico City to San Miguel de Allende—
We took an Uber from the bus station to our Airbnb, Casa Aliz, conveniently located just a few blocks from San Miguel de Allende’s main plaza. After settling in, we took a couple of hours to unwind and recharge in our room and reached out to our friends, Kimi and John—expats who relocated here a year ago from Fuquay-Varina.
Later, we met them for drinks at the Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar atop the elegant Rosewood Hotel. As we caught up over cocktails, we were treated to a spectacular panoramic view of the city, with the majestic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel rising dramatically against the skyline. The warm conversation, vibrant ambiance, and beautiful scenery made for a truly memorable reunion with our friends.
—— Cocktails on the Luna Rooftop Terrace ——
Afterwards, Kimi and John guided us on foot through the narrow, cobblestone streets, flanked by vibrant Spanish Colonial-style buildings in warm hues of ochre, terracotta, and turquoise. As we made our final ascent toward the main square, the street gently framed our view of the majestic Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, its towering spires rising dramatically against the blue sky.
We paused in front of the iconic church, taking in its striking neo-Gothic architecture, pink sandstone façade, and soaring spires. Stepping briefly inside this historic sanctuary—originally completed in 1709—we admired its lofty vaulted ceilings, intricate altars, and beautifully adorned chapels. The interior was further brightened by colorful rainbow banners, an addition that Kimi and John pointed out was recent. Unfortunately, no photos were allowed inside the church.
From there, we wandered around the lively Jardín Principal, alive with music, conversation, and other activities. A mariachi band played nearby, and we stopped to enjoy a couple of their songs. Adding to the festive atmosphere were two enormous mojigangas—giant, whimsical walking puppets— delighting passersby.
Eventually, we made our way to Zaki’s, a cozy Mediterranean restaurant, to dine and continue catching up on Kimi and John’s new life in San Miguel.
—— Walking through San Miguel de Allende ——
At Zaki’s, we dined on a charming terrace that offered yet another view of San Miguel and the distant mountains. We started with drinks and an appetizer before enjoying our main courses—Jane and I both chose the red snapper, while Kimi and John shared a beautifully presented paella. We all enjoyed the delicious meal and engaging conversation. After finishing around 7:30 p.m., we said our goodbyes as we walked back to our room, and they headed to their car to drive home.
—— Dinner at Zaki’s ——
Although we were weary, the evening air had cooled pleasantly, and the mostly downhill stroll back to Casa Aliz was refreshing. The Parroquia, illuminated against the night sky, looked stunning once again—familiar yet transformed by the soft glow of the lights. Back in our room, we turned in early to rest up for exploring a new part of Mexico tomorrow.
—— Parroquia at Night ——
