Monday, August 11, 2025
We got to sleep in a bit and enjoy a more relaxed morning, as the delayed couple—Ann and Larry—finally arrived early from Iquitos after their original flight had been canceled. Though visibly weary from travel, they joined us for breakfast at 7:30 a.m.
Shortly after breakfast, we boarded an open boat and headed upriver to try our hand at piranha fishing. Along the way, our captain spotted several freshwater pink dolphins surfacing across the river. We changed course to get a better view and spent about 45 minutes watching for them. The lighting was harsh, and the dolphins surfaced only briefly—much less visibly than the Atlantic dolphins we’re used to back home. It was hard to make out their pink coloring and nearly impossible to get a good photo.
Eventually, we moved closer to the far shore and followed a quiet tributary where we could fish for piranha. The boat captain handed out simple fishing poles—just sticks with a line and hook—baited with chunks of raw steak. As soon as the bait hit the water, the piranhas attacked. The trick was to yank the line up quickly to hook them, but they often managed to snatch the bait and swim off with a free meal.
I managed to hook several, but each wriggled free and flopped back into the water before I could haul them into the boat. Eventually, I gave up—it was actually more fun to watch the others. Everyone else caught and released at least one fish. Jane had particular success, catching three piranhas—two red and one white. They were the first fish she’d ever caught! She was laughing and clearly enjoying herself.
—— Fishing for Piranha ——
After about an hour of fishing, we returned to Ceiba Tops Lodge and had some downtime before lunch. In the dining hall, a nearby group from China who had also gone piranha fishing were dining. Unlike us, they had kept their catch and asked the restaurant staff to fry it for them. Jane had previously befriended them, and after a quick chat, they generously shared some of their fish with our table. The piranha tasted good, though they were small and full of bones.
After lunch, our guide, German, offered to take Ann and Larry on a hike to the giant tree we’d seen earlier. I opted to stay back and attempted—unsuccessfully—to catch up on blogging. Jane chose to take her own leisurely nature walk around the lodge grounds, spotting interesting lizards, insects, and plants. She also chatted with Marden, a friendly lodge employee taking a break. He works in housekeeping and other chores and commutes to Ceiba Tops via a 1.5-hour boat ride farther down the Amazon.
Later in the afternoon, we took another boat ride to visit a local Yagua Indigenous community, known for their traditional blowgun hunting skills. As we cruised up the Amazon River under initially clear skies, we noticed dark clouds approaching and soon got caught in a rainstorm. Fortunately, we all had raincoats and hats. By the time we reached the village, the rain had stopped, but we still had to slog up a slippery, muddy bank.
The Yagua people welcomed us into an open-sided building and performed a traditional dance, followed by another in which we visitors were invited to join. The performance was accompanied by drums and chants.
Next, we watched a man demonstrate how to use a blowgun to hit a target. Then it was our turn. Remarkably, I hit the target on my first try—and wisely decided not to tempt fate with a second attempt. Jane missed three times but was a good sport about it. German shared more fascinating details about Yagua hunting techniques, including how they prepare poison from native plants to coat their blowgun darts. He also explained that the darts are often sharpened using the razor-like teeth of piranhas, making them even more effective for hunting in the dense Amazon rainforest. Afterward, we wandered through the muddy outdoor craft stalls to browse handmade goods. Jane bought a small balsa wood carving of a capybara for 10 soles.
—— Dancing and Dart Blowing with the Yagua ——
On the way back down the Amazon, the skies cleared and a vibrant rainbow arched overhead, tracing the river with color. Our guide spotted more pink dolphins, giving us a second chance to observe these elusive creatures as they surfaced and fed. This time, with better light and calmer water, we were able to more clearly see their distinctive pink coloration—though capturing them on camera was still a challenge. The captain cut the engine and let us drift quietly in a wide circle, giving us a better look without disturbing them. We watched in silence for about half an hour, enjoying their graceful, fleeting appearances before continuing back to the lodge.
—— A Pink Dophin Surfacing ——
After another filling buffet dinner, German had arranged a special lecture and demonstration by a local shaman. He spoke about the many medicinal and hallucinogenic plants he uses to treat various ailments—plants that have been part of Amazonian healing traditions for generations. Following the talk, he led a spiritual ceremony intended to bestow good fortune and health upon us.
Afterwards, we returned to our cabins, thoroughly relaxed and more than ready to make contact with our beds!
—— Learning from the Shaman ——
