Friday, May 23, 2025
We woke to a cool, sunny morning and strolled downhill in search of a place for a light breakfast. Jane had a spot picked out and entered into her phone’s GPS, located in the Plaza de La Paz. But along the way, we were unwittingly drawn into a different place nearby—El Canastillo de Flores (The Little Basket of Flowers). Despite the inviting plaza views outside, we chose to sit indoors to avoid the bright sun. While we waited for our omelets, Jane checked the restaurant’s online reviews, which turned out to be quite mixed, particularly regarding food quality. In the end, our breakfast was decent enough, and we walked back to our Airbnb suite feeling satisfied.
—— Our Breakfast Venue ——
After climbing the hill, we entered the Airbnb’s property through a locked gate and took a moment to explore the lower terrace. This is where Jeff and Comeka’s rental suite is located. We often spotted a pair of skittish, striped cats here, along with three turtles—the two larger ones usually seen lounging in a corner water feature. From there, we continued up to the upper terrace, where our own Buena Vista suite is situated, and paused to take in the terrace’s spectacular view of the city. This time, we were more attentive and, despite the draw of the sweeping vista, took note of the many beautiful plants thriving in the sunlight—some even in full bloom. Then we stepped inside to get ready for the day’s outing.
—— Exploring our Airbnb’s Terraces ——
Jeff and Comeka are hoping to move to Guanajuato in a couple of years and had arranged to meet with a local realtor to explore housing options. Nallely, the realtor, picked us up on the main street below our suites and spent the next five hours showing us four different homes across various neighborhoods of the city, all within (or close to) Jeff and Comeka’s budget and desired location.
The first property, located in Villa Las Palmas, was currently being operated as an Airbnb. It was bright and spacious, with multiple rooms, a nice view (with room to add a roof-top terrace), and nearly move-in ready. Its location was also relatively close to the city center, though the uphill walk back would definitely be a challenge. By the end of the day, this house stood out as the strongest contender among the ones we toured.
—— House 1 – Villa las Palmas ——
The second house wasn’t ready for viewing, so we made a quick stop at Soriana, a local grocery store, to pick up some drinks. Even after that break, we still found ourselves waiting in the parked car in the Valenciana neighborhood, hoping for a call to let us in. When we were finally able to enter, we found the house to be dimly lit, with odd interior architecture, low ceilings, and no outdoor space at all. In the end, we all agreed it was the least appealing of the homes we toured.
—— Break at the Grocery Store ——
—— House 2 – Valenciana ——
The third house we visited, located in Marfil, had once been part of an old hacienda and offered the least amount of interior space. The kitchen was tiny and would need significant expansion, and a third floor—possibly with a rooftop terrace—would need to be added.
But wow—the garden was absolutely stunning! The huge walled outdoor space was lush and vibrant, filled with beautiful plants, including a few fruit trees that Jeff was especially excited about cultivating. We liked this house the most in many ways, but ultimately, the scale and cost of the renovations made it an impractical choice.
—— House 3 – Marfil ——
The final home Nallely showed us was located in the Panorámica neighborhood, perched high on the hills overlooking the city. This brand-new, four-story unit was built by a developer from Texas and featured a minimalist, modern design. Each floor consisted of a single main room and a bathroom, stacked vertically and connected only by interior stairs. The stark white interior felt somewhat cold and impersonal. The standout feature—really the only compelling one—was the spectacular view, which could also be enjoyed from the rooftop terrace.
—— House 4 – Panorámica ——
After viewing the final house, Nallely dropped us off at our Airbnb around 4 p.m. After a quick break to freshen up, the four of us headed out for dinner. Jeff had arranged for us to meet Bill, an expat friend of his, so the four of us walked over to La Bohemia, a nearby restaurant just a short stroll away.
Bill, a friendly older gentleman from Texas, has been living in Guanajuato for about five years and shared some interesting insights about life as an expat in the city. Jane and I opted for beer and pizza, which turned out to be a welcome and tasty change of pace from the traditional local fare.
—— Dinner at La Bohemia with Bill ——
After dinner, Bill walked with us from the restaurant to Teatro Juárez, where we said our goodbyes. The remaining four of us joined the short line outside for general admission seating and were soon allowed into the building, though we had to wait a bit longer before the theater doors finally opened. Once inside, we found excellent seats with an aisle in front of us, giving us plenty of legroom. However, the theater was not air-conditioned, and the temperature inside was uncomfortably warm.
The first half of the concert, performed by the University of Guanajuato Symphony Orchestra, featured Johannes Brahms’ Violin Concerto in D Major, Op. 77. As a beginner violinist myself, I thoroughly enjoyed the 38-minute performance, which featured guest soloist William Harvey.
As the piece progressed, it became clear that the intense heat was taking a toll on him. After each solo section, he wiped sweat from his forehead with a cloth that must have become saturated quickly. Still, he pressed on with admirable professionalism and delivered a powerful, inspiring performance.
During intermission, we stepped outside to cool off before returning for the second half, which featured two works by Claude Debussy: Prélude à l’après-midi d’un faune (Prelude to the Afternoon of a Fawn) and La Mer (The Sea). Both pieces were deeply moving—especially the thunderous final movement, Dialogue between the Wind and the Sea.
By that point, though, the oppressive heat had become overwhelming. As soon as the lights came on, we made a quick exit from the beautiful but sweltering theater.
—— Symphony at the Teatro Juarez ——
We all agreed that ice cream was absolutely necessary to help us cool down. Jane chose scoops of Monte Blanco, while I went with my favorite—mint chocolate chip. We found a bench to sit on and enjoy both our treats and the lively Friday night atmosphere.
The Callejoneadas were in full swing, winding their way through the alleys with music and laughter, while the mariachis also added to the festive energy of the evening.
Eventually, we made our way back to our Airbnb suite. By the time we arrived, we were completely worn out—and fell asleep almost immediately.