Tuesday, August 12, 2025
Although today marked our final day at Ceiba Tops before departing for Iquitos to catch our flight back to Lima, German was determined to share more Amazonian adventures with us. At dawn, we rose early and, foregoing both breakfast and coffee, boarded the boat at 6 a.m. for a morning of birdwatching along the banks of the mighty Amazon.
As the boat glided smoothly over the river’s surface, the soft morning breeze stirred us awake, refreshing our senses and gently pulling us into the rhythm of the day. The mist began to lift, and soon the golden light of the rising sun bathed the shoreline in a warm glow.
We slowed near a marshy area along the shoreline, where the stillness was broken only by the calls of birds. There, we were rewarded with sightings of a large group of vibrant yellow-hooded blackbirds and later, a group of elegant great egrets. We also spotted a variety of other species, including a kingfisher perched on a dead tree, a jacana delicately walking through shallow waters, a majestic caracara perched watchfully, and both herons and stilts wading in the shallows.
After this brisk and fulfilling hour on the river, we returned to the lodge, in time for our final breakfast at Ceiba Tops—grateful for another unforgettable moment on the Amazon.
—— Early Morning Birding ——
Sunrise over the Amazon River
Ringed Kingfisher
Wattled Jacana
Yellow-hooded Blackbird
Group of Yellow-hooded Blackbirds
Yellow-headed Caracara
Striated Heron
Heron in Flight
Great Egret
Black-necked Stilt
After a final hearty breakfast, I took a quick stroll around the Ceiba Tops grounds, capturing a few last photos to ensure I wouldn’t forget its beautiful surroundings and remarkable facilities.
—— Walking around the Ceiba Tops Grounds ——
At 8 a.m., we reboarded the boat for a visit to the nearby community of San Luis. After disembarking, we climbed a set of stairs up the riverbank, crossed a covered boardwalk, and passed a fish-rearing lagoon and an open-sided tower where river water is treated for the village’s drinking supply.
From there, German, our guide, led us down a concrete sidewalk—part of an infrastructure project funded by the Peruvian government to improve the community. Along the way, we saw plenty of free-range dogs and chickens roaming.
At one point, German paused our group of five to speak with a local woman and her daughter—the youngest of five children. He translated their conversation for us, offering a brief window into daily life in San Luis. The woman, around 49 years old, lived with her 22-year-old daughter in a simple house raised on stilts. The house was constructed with a few sheets of plywood, some attached only halfway up, with the remaining open space serving as windows. After some friendly conversation, we continued on to the local school.
—— Departing Ceiba Tops ——
—— Arriving at San Luis ——
Our first school visit was to a classroom of 3-, 4-, and 5-year-olds. Their teacher led them in cheerful songs, and they each took turns sharing their names, ages, and what they wanted to be when they grew up. We saw a similar activity in another classroom with students aged 8 to 11. Many of the children dreamed of becoming police officers, soldiers, nurses, or soccer players—but a surprising number also said they wanted to be doctors.
Visiting the school was a highlight of our Amazonian cultural exchange. Many of the students had never heard of the United States, and one of the teachers even asked where North Carolina was located within it. Then again, none of us had known where San Luis, Peru was until we arrived—reminding us that perspective depends entirely on where you’re standing in the world.
—— Classroom of Three- to Five-Year-Old Students ——
—— Classroom of Eight- to Eleven-Year-Old Students ——
By around 9:00 a.m., it was time to leave. We retraced our steps to the riverbank and boarded our boat back to Ceiba Tops Lodge.
—— Our Departure was Noted ——
Back at Ceiba Tops, we collected our luggage, checked out, posed for a group photo, and boarded the high-speed boat for the return journey to Iquitos.
—— The Pre-Tour WolfTrekkers with Guide German (front right) ——
—— Approaching Iquitos and the Explorama Docks ——
Once we disembarked at the Explorama office in Iquitos, we boarded a transport van for the ride back to the airport. The drive took us back through “Tuk-Tuk Land”—a chaotic and colorful stretch of road teeming with motorized rickshaws weaving unpredictably through traffic. Our ride to the airport took about half an hour.
We had once again been provided with box lunches, so upon arrival, the five of us found a table in the terminal to eat together before going through security. The gate area was crowded, but we passed the time waiting for our flight back to Lima, which was smooth and uneventful.
—— Departing Iquitos ——
At the Lima airport, we ran into a snag in baggage claim. Larry’s and Ann’s luggage didn’t show up on the carousel. After some confusion, we learned that their bags had been incorrectly tagged to continue on to Cusco. Thankfully, the airport staff were able to locate them and returned them before we left the terminal.
By the time we boarded our van in Lima, it was full-blown rush hour—and Lima rush hour is no joke. The traffic was pure chaos: vehicles ignored lanes and traffic signals, and ongoing construction only made things worse. Although our hotel was less than 10 miles from the airport, the driver had to take a longer, coastal route, turning what should have been a short trip into a journey of over an hour.
We finally arrived at the Westin Lima Hotel, located near downtown. After settling into our rooms, the five of us regrouped for dinner at the hotel’s Peruvian restaurant. We were served drinks, water, and a selection of breads, and placed our orders—but the food took quite a long time to arrive. At that point, we were all thoroughly exhausted and just wanted to eat and head to bed. Eventually, dinner was served, and we wrapped up the long day.
Meanwhile, throughout the night, the remaining eight WolfTrekkers—those who hadn’t joined the Amazon excursion—began arriving at the hotel, ready to unite with our group for the next leg of our journey.
—— Our Hotel Room with a View of Lima Traffic ——
