Wednesday, May 21, 2025
I started the day blogging on the outdoor patio near our room, enjoying the cool morning air and the peaceful serenity around me. Later, we took a short walk to Café de la Parroquia, a nearby restaurant Jane had chosen for breakfast.
We were seated in a tranquil courtyard, where a gentle fountain trickled nearby and lush greenery framed the space—an oasis tucked away from the bustle of town. Jane, feeling much better, ordered a cheese omelet with toast and coffee, all brought to us by our warm and friendly waitress. I ordered a veggie omelet but was mistakenly served one with bacon and potatoes. I ate it, nevertheless, along with a side of hotcakes smothered with maple syrup and a fresh cup of coffee. We were also treated to warm, freshly baked bread accompanied by a selection of flavorful sauces.
The combination of delicious food, peaceful surroundings, and gracious service made this our best breakfast in Mexico so far. Needless to say, we left completely satisfied.
—— Patio at Casa Aliz ——
—— Café de la Parroquia ——
Since we were scheduled to travel to Guanajuato City today, we returned to our room after breakfast, finished packing our bags, and called for an Uber ride. While waiting, we chatted with the receptionist—a friendly guy we’d spoken with off and on throughout our stay.
Our Uber driver dropped us off at the Central Bus Station. Having had such a comfortable experience on our first bus ride, we were hoping to travel with ETN again. Unfortunately, their bus scheduled for our time window was coming from Mexico City and was severely delayed due to traffic issues.
So instead, we purchased tickets with Primera Plus for a bus departing at 11:30. While we waited, I was approached by a man dressed in full explorer gear, who struck up a conversation about real estate. Thankfully, we were eventually rescued when his travel companion urged him to board their departing bus.
Soon after, we boarded our own and settled in for the 1.5-hour ride to Guanajuato.
—— Central Bus Station, San Miguel de Allende ——
After a pleasant but uneventful ride, we arrived in Guanajuato on schedule, around 1:00 p.m. From the bus station, we took an Uber ride to the town center and were dropped off at a plazuela (small plaza) just as our Airbnb host had instructed. Our reservation for the Buena Vista Suite included neither a building name nor a street address, and Jane couldn’t find the step-by-step directions from the main road on her phone—directions with helpful photos.
Without a clear route, we started heading uphill, unsure of where we were going, and ended up overshooting our destination. Eventually, after exchanging several texts with our friend Jeff—who had arrived two days earlier from Mexico City—we located the entrance to the property, just across from a small mural of a white flower. That mural quickly became our landmark for the rest of our stay.
Inside the property, we found multiple rental units. After climbing yet another flight of stairs, we finally reached ours. By that point, we were thoroughly exhausted—lugging bags up and down stairs at nearly 7,000 feet above sea level had taken its toll.
Thankfully, Buena Vista lived up to its name. The suite was spacious and comfortable, with sweeping views of the city. It featured a huge bedroom and bathroom, along with a living area that included a microwave, fridge, water carboy, and coffee maker. The only downside was the lack of air conditioning. We grabbed some water, turned on the small fan, and took a moment to unwind.
A little later, Jeff dropped by and we caught up on everything that had happened since we parted ways in Mexico City a couple of days earlier.
—— Buena Vista Suite, Guanajuato ——
Shortly after, Comeka joined us, and the four of us walked a few blocks to the Diego Rivera House Museum (Museo Casa Diego Rivera). This was the childhood home of the renowned Mexican artist, famously married to Frida Kahlo and known for his powerful murals that often reflected his commitment to social justice.
The house spans four floors. The lower level is furnished to resemble how it might have looked during Rivera’s childhood, offering a glimpse into his early domestic life. As we made our way up the stairs, we were pleasantly surprised to find a wide array of Rivera’s paintings and drawings, ranging from his earliest works to those from later in his career.
I was especially struck by the diversity of his styles—pieces showing influences from Cubism, Renaissance art, and Mexican folk traditions—all reflecting the various artistic and cultural forces that shaped his life.
Unfortunately, photography was prohibited throughout the museum, except in the final small room, where a few of Rivera’s smaller works were on display. In this room, Jeff recognized the distinctive peaks in one painting titled The Hills of Guanajuato, a nod to the landscape of Rivera’s hometown.
We left the museum with a much deeper appreciation and understanding of this iconic Mexican artist.
—— Diego Rivera House Museum ——
—— Cerros de Guanajuato – Diego Rivera 1967 ——
After visiting the museum, Jane and I ducked into an OXXO to grab some water, beer, and a bottle of electrolyte coconut water, then returned to the Buena Vista Suite to rest for a bit.
Around 5:30 p.m., the four of us walked to what may be the nearest restaurant—Los Huacales. The name literally means “the crates,” a nod to the wooden boxes used in Mexican markets, evoking freshness, authenticity, and market-inspired Mexican cuisine.
We were seated upstairs at a table near an open window, enjoying the breeze and casual atmosphere. Jane and I both ordered chile rellenos served with rice and black beans—our kind of comfort food, and delicious.
After dinner, we made our way back to the suite quickly, as it was lightly raining and heavier showers seemed imminent.
—— Dinner at Los Huacales——
After grabbing some rain gear from the room, Jane and I headed back out to pick up pastries for breakfast. But we quickly found ourselves moving against the flow of a lively procession—drummers, trumpeters, a fifer, and people carrying images of the Virgin, all making their way toward the Basilica on Plaza de la Paz.
Pastries in hand, we eventually merged into the parade—this time going with the flow, despite the steady rain. We followed the crowd to the Basilica, where we paused to watch the procession for a while, soaking in the energy and devotion of the moment.
Realizing we needed to backtrack to find our little alley, we wound our way back and climbed uphill to the Airbnb. Once inside, we cracked open a couple of cans of Victoria beer and relaxed—content after a festive and unexpectedly memorable afternoon and evening in a new city.
—— Caught in the Parade——
