Antrhopology, Flying Men, and Good Eats

Thursday, May 15, 2025

We woke up early today—Mexico City is two hours behind Apex—so our bodies are still adjusting. I felt groggy and had a slight headache, but after a shot of espresso from the in-room machine, I slowly came to life. 

We arrived at 8:00 a.m., just as Margot’s rooftop terrace opened for breakfast. The weather was perfect for dining al fresco. Since we were the only guests at that hour, the two friendly Mexican women who served us were both attentive and respectfully unobtrusive.

We sipped on cappuccinos while taking in the peaceful surroundings. Jane ordered a fresh fruit juice and a taco-style egg dish, while I opted for a delicious goat cheese omelet with mushrooms sautéed in a rich truffle and wine sauce.

We lingered for a while, soaking in the calm ambiance, before heading back to the room to get ready for the day’s activities.

—— Breakfast on Margot’s Terrace —–

Soon, we set out on foot toward Bosque de Chapultepec (Chapultepec Forest/Park), guided by GPS on Jane’s iPhone. Our hotel is in Roma Norte, a trendy neighborhood known for its tree-lined streets and stylish boutiques. While we did encounter the promised trees, our route led us through some decidedly un-trendy stretches with cracked and uneven sidewalks, ongoing construction, and not a single pedestrian signal in sight.

Eventually, we climbed the stairs of a pedestrian bridge to cross a major highway and were rewarded with views of dense traffic and high-rise buildings. Just as we entered the park, six tall white columns topped with black caps emerged above the treetops. Intrigued, we made our way to the plaza and discovered a monument dedicated A los Defensores de la Patria—to the defenders of the homeland.

We paused there for a moment, quietly taking in this solemn and respectful Mexican tribute to those who gave their lives for their country, before continuing our walk deeper into the park toward our destination.

—— Walking to & thru Chapultepec Park —— 

Our destination, the National Museum of Anthropology (Museo Nacional de Antropología) was incredible—if a bit overwhelming. With more than 250,000 artifacts displayed across 16 exhibition halls on two main floors (plus additional exhibits on lower levels), the museum offers a sweeping journey through the history of Mexico, from the earliest human settlements to the present day. Outside, there are impressive open-air exhibits featuring replicas of ancient buildings, sculptures, and frescoes that represent various Indigenous civilizations.

We spent over three hours exploring the museum, moving through halls dedicated to specific cultures like the Aztecs, Mayas, Toltecs, Olmecs, Zapotecs, Mixtecs, and others. One highlight was the Teotihuacan exhibit, which offered a nice introduction to that civilization and served as the perfect primer for our visit to the site tomorrow. Some of the more contemporary galleries focused on the textiles, food, festivals, and rituals of Mexico’s many Indigenous communities, offering insight into the country’s vibrant living traditions.

We left the museum with a much deeper appreciation for Mexican history and culture—along with completely exhausted brains and feet.

—— National Museum of Anthropology —— 

 

After leaving the Anthropology Museum, we bought a couple of bottles of water and found a park bench to rest our weary feet. As we relaxed, we noticed a group of men in colorful traditional costumes nearby, finishing their lunches and beginning to stir. Our timing couldn’t have been better—they were preparing to perform La Danza de los Voladores (The Dance of the Flyers) on a nearby blue pole that appeared to be about 100 feet high.

Soon, six performers began dancing in a circle at the base of the pole, accompanied by haunting flute and drum music, played live by one of the dancers using hand-crafted instruments. Then, without any safety gear, five of them began climbing the pole with practiced ease. Once they reached the top—now gently swaying from their climb—four of the flyers prepared their ropes while the fifth continued playing music from a small platform.

The group carefully rotated the top structure to wind the ropes around the pole, then each flyer secured themselves to the ends of their ropes. Moments later, the descent began. One by one, the four flyers leaned back and launched into a slow, graceful spin, hanging upside down as they spiraled through the air. With each revolution, their circle widened until they were able to feel the ground with ther hands at which point they gently flipped upright and touched down for a smooth, feet-first landing.

Meanwhile, the sixth member—still on the ground—moved through the small crowd collecting donations. We were more than happy to contribute 50 pesos for such a mesmerizing and unique cultural performance. It was truly an unforgettable experience and left us pondering how one could accomplish such a feat immediately after eating lunch!

—— The Dance of the Flyers —— 

After the flying exhibition, we walked back to the hotel, taking a more pleasant route that led us out of the park through a main gate and across a major highway via a wide pedestrian bridge. We wound our way through a more typical part of Roma Norte, stopping at a small (and ubiquitous) OXXO store to pick up two large bottles of water—just before arriving back at Durango 219.

After about an hour of rest at the hotel, we set out again, this time for a mile-long walk in the opposite direction toward Caracol Mar, a seafood restaurant where Jane had made a 5:00 p.m. reservation. Having skipped lunch, we were more than ready for an early dinner.

The restaurant featured large windows that offered pleasant views, though they also let in quite a bit of heat and amplified the noise from lively conversations around us. We each ordered a glass of wine (different kinds) and shared an ahi tuna appetizer. For the main course, Jane had deep-fried fish tacos, while I enjoyed sea bass with Swiss chard and crispy potato cubes. For dessert, Jane chose a coconut-lime meringue, and I had a coffee-infused tres leches torte. The food was superb but we were glad to exit from the noise of the restaurant.

—— Dinner at Caracol de Mar —— 

Jane found a promising bakery, Mama Carmela’s, just a short detour from our route back to the hotel. Naturally, we couldn’t resist stopping in to pick up four assorted pastries to enjoy for breakfast in the morning. By the time we finally returned to our room, we were grateful to be off our tired feet.

It had been an active day—we walked 8.4 miles and logged over 18,500 steps. We were more than ready to unwind and get some rest before tomorrow’s adventures.

—— Shopping for Tomorrow’s Breakfast ——