Monday, June 10, 2024
After a hotel breakfast, we drove to the Split Rock Lighthouse. During the drive, which involved going through a couple of tunnels, we listened to Gordon Lightfoot sing “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald,” to put us into a Lake Superior shipwreck mood. We arrived a few minutes before the Visitor Center opening time of 10 am.
Inside the center, we watched a video and learned about the history, design, and function of the lighthouse, via a movie and displays. The lighthouse was built as a result of a famously savage 1905 storm during which 29 ships on Lake Superior were lost or damaged. The details of one these, the Madeira, happened near the lighthouse and was described in detail and the anchor of the Madeira was on display in front of the center.
— Split Rock Lighthouse Visitor Center —
We then walked outside to visit the lighthouse constructed in 1910. The 54-foot tall edifice is picturesquely perched atop a 130-foot tall cliffside and when in operation projected its light 22 miles across Lake Superior. We were able to climb the 132 stairs to the lighthouse top and watch the light mechanism slowly turning. We had learned in the visitor center that the six-foot high lens weighs more thna 15,000 pounds and floats in 250 pounds of mercury. We also walked through the separate fog horn house and the keeper’s house where we learned about family life in what was then a very remote area.
—— Split Rock Lighthouse, Fog Horn & Keeper’s House ——
Next, we took a short hike on Little Two Harbors Trail to the old pump house and ruins of the old tramway and its tram house. This trail led to the shore where we had great views of the famous lighthouse atop its cliffside. The return hike required ascending 172 stairs alongside remnant pillars of the tramway.
—— Little Two Harbors Trail ——
On the drive back to Two Harbors along MN-51 (Voyageurs Highway), we stopped at the Split Rock River Trail head. Here, we walked through a pedestrian tunnel under the highway for a close-up view of the intersection between Split Rock River and Lake Superior.
Once back in Two Harbors, we stopped at Black Woods Grill & Bar for lunch.
—— Black Woods Grill & Bar ——
After lunch, we continued driving south toward Duluth to Glensheen. Perched on the shore of Lake Superior the Glensheen mansion, located on a beautiful 12-acre estate, was built by Chester and Clara Congdon between 1905 and 1908. The Congdons, who gained their wealth via iron mining in the region, raised their many children here. Eventually, in 1979 Congdon descendants of the original couple donated the mansion and estate to the University of Minnesota (which has a Duluth campus). Indeed, our hostesses during the visit were college students.
After purchasing our tickets, our tour began in the stable and carriage house which provided secure comfort for the animals they housed.
—— Stable and Carriage House ——
Next, we walked to the front door of the mansion and were required to knock to be admitted. I was half expecting to encounter Lurch as the heavy wooden door opened but instead was greeted by a friendly hostess that covered the rules of our self-guided tour.
We wandered through five stories (including the attic) of the mansion that was tastefully decorated with remarkable early 20th-century craftsmanship, a mixture of local and worldly works. Notable paintings were hanging on the walls. We were able to see and read about how each family member’s room was customized according to their interests. And, we were amazed at some of the modern features of the mansion such as a central vacuum cleaning system and multiple spa-like shower heads. Overall, the interior displayed the family’s wealth but appeared to be a very comfortable residence without being overtly oppulent.
—— Glensheen Mansion ——
Eventually, we exited the mansion in the rear and explored the well-landscaped estate property including the formal gardens, Tischer Creek and its stone arch bridge, the shore of Lake Superior, the boathouse and pier, and the vegetable garden. From the pier, we had a view of Duluth and its iconic Aerial Lift Bridge.
—— Exploring Glensheen Estate Property ——
After visiting Glensheen, we decided to briefly explore Duluth. We drove around the popular Canal Park area and ended up crossing the Aerial Lift Bridge that we had recently observed from the pier at Glensheen. This bridge can be horizontally raised to its full height of 135 feet in about a minute to accommodate passing ships. We continued a ways after crossing the bridge, then turned around and headed back through Duluth to Two Harbors.
—— Duluth ——
Back in Two Harbors, we sought out the Castle Danger Brewery for Happy Hour refreshments. We had been sampling beers from this brewery at various Minnesotan establishments and were glad to check out their taproom in person. The malty smells of brewing were in the air as we made our choices from the many options. Jane selected their Ode IPA while I had their George Hunter Stout (on nitro) and Lager Royale.
We then returned to our hotel room and retired for the evening after deciding to skip dinner because we were still full from our heavy late lunch.
—— Castle Danger Brewery ——
