Wednesday May 15, 2024
Today is this year’s opening day for the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. This morning, we left the campground and turned south onto AZ-67. This highway, Grand Canyon Road, provides the only access to the North Rim and was closed yesterday when we arrived. The 45-mile route took a little over an hour but was very scenic, starting with ponderosa pine forests still showing scars from the recent Magnum fire, then rolling through meadows and higher elevation forests with aspen, Englemann spruce and sub-alpine fir. Remnant patches of snow persisted in the shaded areas. After passing through the park entrance, we travelled several more miles of twisty road to reach the parking area for the Visitor Center, Lodge, and other facilities.
We first walked through the relatively small Visitor Center and got our Passport stamp and Jane purchased a souvenir water bottle and t-shirt. We then explored the area on foot and ended up in the magnificent Grand Canyon Lodge perched on the edge of the North Rim. We perused the Lodge interior including its restaurant and lounge area with gorgeous views.
North Rim Visitor Center
Rental Cabins
Grand Canyon Lodge
Lodge Restaurant
Lodge Lounge and Viewing Area
After checking out the Lodge’s interior, we took a rear exit and hiked east on the 0.5-mile out-and-back Bright Angel Point Trail. Our first views of the Grand Canyon from the North Rim were beautiful. The North Rim receives more rainfall and snowfall than the South Rim and was noticably more vegetated. We spotted a beautiful western tanager while hiking along this trail.
——————— Bright Angel Point Trail ———————
After our enjoyable but brief hike, we made dinner reservations and also arrangements to join the Supai Tunnel mule ride at 12:30. In the meantime, we decided to have a picnic lunch and enjoyed it while sitting on a log with a nice canyon view conveniently located across from our parked car.
Picnic Lunch
After lunch, we caught a shuttle from the front of the Gift Shop to the mule corral. As we waited in line at the corral to be assigned a specific mule, we were overcome by a stench that we would gradually become accustomed to during the ride. Jane was assigned a white mule, Molly, and I was assigned a brown one, Slim. We saddled-up with help and were instructed on how to manage our live mode of transport.
——————— Saddling-up for the Mule Ride ———————
We then lined our mules up and headed down the North Kaibab Trail. I quickly adjusted to Slim’s clopping as he navigated rocky switchbacks down the canyon wall. We were taught to keep our mules about three to four feet apart; the only legitimate reason for a mule to stop was to pee. In this case, we were instucted to yell out “pit stop” and the entire line would wait for the act to be completed before proceeding. Urinating must be a social activity for mules because we were stopping a lot about mid-way down our descent.
Slim loved to munch on the lush vegetation beside the trail so during pee stops, I’d let him eat away, but while the mule line was moving, I had to keep after him to forego these irresistable snacks. While in motion, our beastly caravan was also jettisoning freshly-generated turds along the trail. I felt sorry for the hikers on the trail who, not only had to stand aside and wait for us to pass, but also then had to negotiate these odiferous deposits, not to mention the explosive passing of gas. Despite the trail mess, the below-rim views were spectacular as we proceeded along our two-mile descent. We eventually arrived at our turn-around point and rest stop, Supai Tunnel.
——————— Descending North Kaibab Trail ———————
At our rest stop, we dismounted and our mules were hitched. We were provided water from a canteen and were free to use the restroom facilities and roam around. We walked through Supai Tunnel and found fabulous canyon views on the other side. After awhile, we again saddled-up. Jane’s knees had been hurting her on the descent, so the guide lengthened Molly’s stirrups to ameliorate the situation. A light rain started while we were waiting to depart. Finally, we lined-up and began our upward climb.
——————— Rest Stop at Supai Tunnel———————
The mules handled the steep climb admirably (and without pee stops). Our guide stopped at a few scenic overlooks and gave a brief presentation while the mules rested. Light rain intermittantly fell until we were almost to the rim when it turned into freezing rain and sleet. We hunkered down during the final trail section to the corral where we quickly dismounted and hustled to the protection of the awaiting van. During the drive back to the Gift Shop depot, the driver cranked up the van’s heat as large balls of icy slush splattered on the windshield. As we were disembarking at the depot, we were each handed a certificate proclaiming that we were offical members of the Academy of Honorable Grand Canyon Master Muleteers bestowed by Canyon Trail Rides, North Rim.
——————— Ascending North Kaibab Trail ———————
The frozen precipitation turned into cold driving rain. We were wet and cold. We waited in a slow line in the Saloon (where the outside door was open) to order beverages, hot coffee with a shot of bourbon for Jane and a Grand Canyon pilsner for me. We took our drinks and sought warmth in the Lodge viewing lounge. There, we found a large warm radiator in a rear corner and hung around it to warm and dry. We befriended a young couple from Indiana also trying to warm up. They had left the South Rim about 4 am, hiked down the canyon, crossed the Colorado River on a swinging bridge, encoutered six rattlesnakes, and then finished their 26-mile long hike by ascending the North Kaibab Trail where they had encountered our mule caravan and its messy deposits. By comparison, our excursion and discomforts seemed minor.
——————— Hanging at the Lodge———————
When the rain finally stopped, I made a run to the car to retrieve warm clothes for both of us. While we were waiting for our 5 pm dinner reservation, I briefly hiked west on Transept Trail to a fantastic overlook while Jane stayed securely by the corner radiator.
———————— Transept Trail Overlook ————————
Shortly after returning from my hike, we were seated in the Lodge restaurant where we enjoyed a nice Utah trout dinner with carrot cake for dessert. Jane asked for a box for her leftovers. After dinner, we drove the hour-long trip back to our campground and immediatley went to bed in the motorhome exhausted by a full, but rewarding, day of activity.
Dining at the Lodge Restaurant