Saturday, October 5, 2024
We departed the ship early this morning at 8 a.m. for the two-hour drive to Salamanca. Although the weather forecast hadn’t called for it, we experienced a bit of rain. Shortly, we crossed into Spain and into a different time zone. About halfway through our scenic route, we took a brief comfort break at the Casa Conrado Restaurant in Villaseco. Our bus unloaded, and everyone queued up to use the limited restroom facilities and to place orders at the restaurant counter. We got an immersive sensory experience with the copious amounts of hanging meat. After visiting the restroom, I decided to escape the crowds and waited outside for our departure.
—— Comfort Stop in Villaseco ——
Upon arriving in Salamanca, our bus dropped us off with a short walk to Plaza Mayor, located in the heart of the city. In the plaza, 14 members of the Smithsonian Journeys group who had signed up for the bike tour split off and followed our Cuban guide, Allan, through the streets to a bicycle shop tucked down a narrow alley.
—— Plaza Mayor, Salamanca ——
At the bicycle shop, we chose our bikes from a wide selection and were each given a helmet. Our guide, a native of the Netherlands, provided a safety briefing, and before long, we were pedaling behind her through Salamanca’s charming streets. She was an excellent guide and had carefully selected a route that avoided both traffic and pedestrian crowds as much as possible.
Our first stop was the Botanical Archaeological Park (Parque Arqueológico del Botánico), where we got a glimpse of some of the city’s earliest archaeological excavations, nestled within a peaceful natural park. Part of our ride followed the Río Tormes, the river that winds through the city, and we paused at a scenic viewpoint where the reflections of the Old and New Cathedrals shimmered in the water.
We then crossed the river via a pedestrian bridge and cycled through a lovely green park. Our guide then led us back toward the town center, choosing a gently sloped route that gradually ascended from river level. As we pedaled through the historic Old Town crowded with pedestrians, we passed university buildings, the iconic House of Shells (Casa de las Conchas), and, of course, both the Old and New Cathedrals.
Stopping to admire the cathedrals, we were treated to an insightful explanation of the fascinating blend of Gothic and Renaissance elements in the facade of the New Cathedral, along with stories behind some of its many intricate carvings. Our challenge was to spot a frog hidden among the detailed designs. After much searching, we finally located it—worn down with time—on top of one of the skulls.
After returning our bikes and helmets to the shop, we walked to the designated bus pick-up spot. As we waited, we were surprised to spot a forestry company across the street, adding an unexpected touch of interest to our Salamanca experience.
—— Biking through Salamanca ——
The coach took us through town to the elegant Hotel Alameda Palace, where we enjoyed lunch in a spacious and welcoming dining room. We were treated to an abundant buffet, offering a variety of delicious dishes and plenty of wine. Among the many options, I had the chance to try paella, a traditional Spanish dish, and found it tasty. After our meal, we were treated to a special flamenco performance, adding a lively cultural touch to our lunch experience.
—— Lunch & Flamenco ——
After lunch, we had an hour and a half to explore on our own. Jane and I decided to visit the Old Cathedral, so we quickly made our way back through Plaza Mayor and into Old Town. Unfortunately, when we arrived at the cathedral, we discovered it was closed to tourists due to a wedding. Undeterred, we took our time on the walk back, leisurely enjoying the sights of the city.
We then joined others in a small park across from the hotel, where we waited for the coach to pick us up. Once aboard, we journeyed back through the scenic Spanish countryside, though without a comfort stop, making our way to Barca d’Alva in Portugal, where the Douro Elegance was anchored, waiting for our return.
—— Walking in Salamanca ——
Back onboard, we quickly showered, attended the briefing for tomorrow’s activities in the lounge, and then enjoyed dinner. Later, we were treated to a special demonstration on how to open a long-aged bottle of port, where the cork is at risk of disintegrating. We watched as heated tongs and ice water were used to carefully break the glass neck below the cork, and as the port was decanted. We were then offered a glass of the 2008 vintage port to sample. It was rich and sweet (though less so than some other ports I’ve tried), with a complex range of flavors. It was definitely a port I’d like to explore further. After the tasting, we headed to bed, reflecting on the day’s experiences.
—— Uncorking Port ——
