Friday, October 4, 2024
At 9 a.m., we departed by motor coach for Lamego. As we left, we enjoyed lovely views of Régua and its surroundings, followed by scenic landscape as we ascended from the Douro River into the rolling hills and pastoral countryside.
—— Régua to Lamego Landscape ——
After about 45 minutes, we arrived at the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies (Santuário de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios) in Lamego. Perched atop a hill, the sanctuary overlooks the town and is dedicated to the town’s patron saint. Upon arrival, we walked from the bus around one side of the church and came upon an ancient, wide European chestnut tree, its branches laden with developing chestnut burrs. As we continued around the church’s exterior, we were treated to our first breathtaking glimpses of the town below and the ornate Baroque facade of the church.
—— Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies – Exterior ——
We entered through the church’s front portal and were guided through its interior, where we were immediately struck by the sanctuary’s elaborate and richly adorned design. The well-crafted altar featured sculptures highlighted with gold leaf details and intricate carvings. Above the altar, an image of Our Lady of Remedies stood draped in regal attire, symbolizing protection and comfort for the faithful.
The ceiling was also impressive, with vibrant white frescoes set against a serene sky-blue background, adding a sense of grandeur to the space. We spent some time admiring the many other decorative elements, from the finely crafted chapels to the ornate pillars, all contributing to the church’s beautiful and opulent ambiance.
—— Sanctuary of Our Lady of Remedies – Interior ——
After exiting through a small museum at the rear of the church, we made our way back to the front to admire the sweeping view of Lamego below us before beginning our 686-step descent on the pilgrimage path. As we made our way down, we encountered terraces, small chapels, statues, fountains, benches, mosaics, and lush gardens along the way. The ever-changing views of the magnificent church above and the town below kept our attention captivated. I found myself lingering at each level, savoring the peaceful atmosphere and the moment, reluctant to reach the end of this special journey.
—— Hillside Descent from the Sanctuary ——
At the bottom of the staircase, we continued through Lamego, still savoring the views of the hilltop church and its pilgrimage path as we strolled through shop-lined plazas adorned with pools, fountains, and statues. Eventually, we reached the heart of the old town and arrived at the Lamego Cathedral (Sé de Lamego), our second church visit of the morning.
Originally constructed in the 12th century, the cathedral has been renovated and expanded over the centuries, blending architectural styles from Romanesque to Baroque. The altar, with its exquisite gilded craftsmanship, immediately captured our attention, and we were struck by the soaring, high-arched ceilings, which were beautifully painted in vibrant colors. We also visited the cathedral’s small but tranquil cloister.
—— Lamego Cathedral ——
After visiting the cathedral, Jane and I decided to explore the Museum of Lamego (Museu de Lamego). The museum’s collection was impressively diverse, featuring religious art, archaeological finds, architectural pieces, sculptures, historical photographs, and even antique buggies. We were captivated by the exhibits, which provided fascinating insights into the history and culture of Lamego and its surrounding region. The displays offered a deep dive into the area’s heritage, and we left feeling enriched by all we had learned.
—— Museum of Lamego ——
After exiting the museum, we perused the streets and shops of the old town, soaking in the local atmosphere. We then gathered with our fellow travelers at the designated departure point, the plaza in front of the museum. From there, the coach took us on a scenic drive through the beautiful countryside, ultimately bringing us to the village of Pinhão, where the ship was docked.
Once aboard, we enjoyed a relaxing lunch before attending another lecture by Smithsonian expert, Erik. The lecture, titled “Medieval Visions of the Heavenly Jerusalem on Earth: The Two Salamanca Cathedrals,” provided a fascinating preview of our upcoming stop. With this knowledge in hand, we will be prepared for tomorrow’s explorations.
—— View from Museum Plaza —–
—— Afternoon Lecture ——
We spent most of the afternoon lounging on the sundeck with Nancy and John, who kindly shared their anniversary bottle of champagne with us. It was so relaxing to simply unwind and gaze out as we slowly progressed up the Douro River. The views were wonderful — vineyards with terraced slopes stretched up from the riverbanks as far as the eye could see. We could easily read the signage of many of the vineyards from the river. Along the way, we passed stately buildings, sailed beneath several bridges, and watched trains snaking through tunnels on tracks that ran parallel to the river. It was the perfect way to enjoy the tranquil beauty of the Douro Valley.
Amidst all the lush greenery, we couldn’t help but notice some areas that were clearly abandoned. We had learned about phylloxera, a root-feeding aphid introduced from North America that had once devastated many vineyards in the Douro Valley. Fortunately, the introduction of resistant American rootstocks has allowed infested areas to be reclaimed, but not all have fully recovered. The scars of this blight remain visible, a reminder of one of the challenges the valley’s vineyards have faced over the years.
In the mid-afternoon, the crew surprised us by bringing ginjinha served in chocolate cups to the sundeck. There were plenty to go around, so we each indulged in two (or more!) of these delightful treats.
During our travels today, we passed through two locks. The first, the Valeira Lock, is 109 feet high, and we navigated it during the afternoon. Later, after dinner, we passed through the second lock, the Poço Lock, which raised us 72 feet. It was an unusual yet memorable pre-bedtime experience to end our day of relaxation.
—— Cruising Views —–
