Friday, September 20, 2024
This morning our tour bus left for the 1.5-hour ride to Pamplona at 8:30 am. The ride started through mountainous terrain of the Pyrenees and after entering the province and Chartered Community of Navarre, we made a quick stop. Because the skies were overcast and a light rain was falling, we donned our rain gear and took a short hike to an overlook of the small town of Azpirotz and the surrounding mountainsides. As we continued toward Pamplona, the capital of Navarre, the terrain transitioned into distinctly drier semi-arid conditions.
—— Azpirotz ——
After disembarking in Pamplona, Paula introduced us to our local guide. One of the first stops on our walking tour of Pamplona, famous for its Encierro, or Running of the Bulls, was a monument to this event. We continued walking through wet streets with a light rain and passed by two landmarks that Ernest Hemingway frequented, Hotel de la Perla, where he stayed on his first visit, and Cafe Iruna in Plaza de Castillo.
—— Walking through Pamplona ——
—— Plaza de Castillo and Cafe Iruna ——
Our guided tour continued from there to Camino de Santiago and Calle Estefa, two of the four streets that the Running of the Bulls occurs on. We walked through the interesction of these two streets, La Curva de Estefa, one of the most dangerous spots along the Encierno. Our tour departed the Encierno route and we walked through more rainy streets occasionally seeking shelter from the rain under canopies and building overhangs. The tour looped back to Cafe Iruna on Plaza de Castillo where our local guide departed us and Paula gave us a couple of hours for lunch and exploration on our own.
—— The Running of the Bulls (Encierno) Route ——
Our group of four set off wandering away from the square to find food and dry shelter. After much indecision, we opted for a restaurant, entered, and were searching the online menu when we learned that food service wouldn’t start until after our departure time. So, we left our dry refuge. At this point we had burned off a good bit of our free time, so Jane and I decided to forego lunch completely so that we could see the Plaza de Toros, Pamplona’s famed bullring.
The rain was abating and after some brisk walking, Jane and I found the Plaza de Toros. We walked about 180 degrees around the stadium taking pictures. Then, we discovered that we could tour the inside, so after purchasing tickets and waiting awhile, we were allowed to enter. Inside the gate, we stood in a small room with other tourists and watched a four-minute long video of the Running of the Bulls. At the end of the Encierno, the people and bulls ran through the very room in which we were standing. As they did so, the door behind us opened and we could behold the sandy grounds and rows and rows of red and yellow circular seating of the bullring. We were free to walk through a cordoned off path through the arena including indoor areas. We saw where the bulls are kept, the matadors dressing area, a small chapel, etc. At the end of our designated route, we could walk into the sandy grounds where the bullfights occur and gaze up into the stands imagining the exciting spectacle of a raucous bullfight audience.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have as long as we would have liked to linger at the ring and departed too soon in order to make our way back to Cafe Iruna on time. On the way out of Pamplona, our bus passed by the Plaza de Toros and we noticed a statue of Hemingway that we had missed on our hurried exit from the bullring.
—— Plaza de Toros ——
Back at the Parador, our expert, Cameron Watson, gave his final lecture, Tradition and Modernity in Basque Country, in which he provided numerous examples of how the Basque people have transformed but continued their past heritage to this day. After the presentation, Jane and I walked down to the Marina area in search of dinner. Although it was a hopping Friday evening, the restaurants hadn’t begun serving full meals but only drinks and pintxos. So, we decided to purchase a couple of pizzas at a take-out place called Peccato. With hot pizzas in hand, we climbed the hill back to the Parador where I claimed a table for us on the outdoor terrace while Jane purchased and brought up beers from the downstairs bar. We invited Cameron to join us and soon Nancy and John showed up bearing more food and drink options. After, a nice meal with a beautiful view and fine comraderie, we all retired to our respective rooms satisfied.
—— Our Evening Lecture and Dinner ——
