Cow Head & Neddy Norris Night

The skies were overcast but the rain held off as we left the KOA campground. We dropped back into the Gros Morne National Park visiter center to upgrade our passes to year-long Canadian national park passes. We had collected receipts from all our entry passes and that total was deducted from the cost. Because we’ll be visiting or revisiting several national parks during the remaining portion of our trip, we’ll save a little money and, if we return within a year, even more money.

We headed north along the coast on highway 430 and as we entered the town of Rocky Harbour,  stopped at the PharmaSave for a few supplies. We then proceeded through this town with nice harbor views but because of the overcast skies, the seas had changed from blue to a greenish gray color. We continued along the coast and took a turn off to the Lobster Cove Lighthouse. There we read displays throughout several rooms that were once the residence of former lighthouse keeper families. We learned that the west and part of the north coast of The Rock was known as the French Coast and has more of a French heritage than the other regions of Newfoundland where mostly English settled.

The View View at our Cow Head RV Site

We proceeded up the coast to the town of Cow Head and dropped in a local grocery store to replenish our food supplies. We then proceeded to the Sea Breeze B&B and RV Park. There are eight fully serviced RV lots in a row facing the harbor. As we were setting up, Jane reinjured her calf muscle, this time severely enough that she “about blacked out” and had to sit down while I finished setting up. It was Sunday afternoon, we had spare time and a good wi-fi connection, so we dropped the Murphy bed for Jane to lay down and spent the afternoon relaxing and connecting with family. Meanwhile, strong winds blew across our spit of land rocking the RV back and forth while rain showers came and went.

We had arranged for a dinner and theatre show in Cow Head. From the RV windshield, we could see the town and theatre building along the curved coast. We had planned to walk there (less than 1 mile) but because of the weather and Jane’s leg injury, we decided to drive. We ate dinner at Neddy’s Pub & Eatery in the Shallow Bay Motel & Cabins. The show was also presented at this motel, in the Ethie Room.

The Neddy Norris Night show was two hours of traditional songs and stories representing Newfoundland culture. (Unfortunately, photos and videos were not allowed.) Four musicians (three young women and a young man) sang and played varying combinations of instruments: guitar, piano, violin, large hand-held drums, pipe and an oversized mandolin. But their singing was the highlight as they traded solos and various combinations of two-, three- and four-part harmonies. Many of the songs had been passed down for 100s of years and were documented by early musicologists to the region. They reflected  Irish, French, and English heritages, often featuring fair maidens and sailors. The show was entertaining and certainly presented a uniquely regional flavor.

After the show, we drove back to the site and fumbled around setting up in the dark before retiring. The rains had abated but winds continued to buffet the RV. We’re hoping for improved weather tomorrow.